WINNER of PULLITZER. Barbarian Days és la història duna obsessió. El Surf pot semblar només un esport però és quelcom més: una afició, un estudi, una activitat perillosa fins i tot moralment, un estil de vida... Finnegan va créixer entre California i Hawai i va començar el surf quan era un nen. Va navegar sobre les onades de tots els oceans a gairebé tots els
continents.
Surfing only looks like a sport. To devotees, it is something else entirely: a beautiful addiction, a mental and physical study, a passionate way of life.
William Finnegan first started surfing as a young boy in California and Hawaii. Barbarian Days is his immersive memoir of a life spent travelling the world chasing waves through the South Pacific, Australia, Asia, Africa and beyond. Finnegan describes the edgy yet enduring brotherhood forged among the swell of the surf; and recalling his own apprenticeship to the world's most famous and challenging waves, he considers the intense relationship formed between man, board and water.
Barbarian Days is an old-school adventure story, a social history, an extraordinary exploration of one man's gradual mastering of an exacting and little-understood art. It is a memoir of dangerous obsession and enchantment.
